Pakistan - my Kalash Shangrila

9-18 may

Ishpata!

Some days ago I received a mail from a Slovenian guy whom I met in Lahore. He wrote that he had found his Shangri La* in Skardu. I have never been in Skardu but I was in the Kalash Valleys now and I must say there is my SHAMBALA*. Read on, maybe I can give you some of these wonderful impressions, maybe you get an idea of this fascinating, pristine, unique culture.

But first we had to pass a test. The pass that leads to Chitral has an extremely bad road, 5 times we thought: now it’s over, let’s turn back. But we made it – with 2 punctures at the tyres, a day of 15hrs drive instead of 8, a car which drove through mud, knee-deep water, icy trails with snow walls of 3 meters next to the road, steep mud trails. Always when we asked we heard “rasta teek heh!” which means that the road is ok. They use different definitions for “OK” than we do – they have the better cars!

Lots of helpful people with skills that you only get in areas like this helped us to repair and change the tyres, feed us with tea and bread. At 2am we reached Chitral discussing if it was worth the adventure and dangerous journey. We didn’t know what expected us in the next days. We would never have had any doubts.

After 1 day in Chitral, the last town in beautiful Chitral Valley we went on to the most southern of Kalash Valleys: Birir. In a small village called Guru we were the only tourists and were accommodated in a real Kalash Guesthouse, which means being a member of the family, not a special guest with special treatment, but just there and welcome. “It’s your choice!” is their most loved expression and they mean it. No one is upset or angry if you don’t follow a suggestion, no one tells you what you have to do, no one forces you to accompany him…
I was so surprised from the first moment. In our guide book I have seen a pic of a Kalash woman in her traditional dress. I hoped we would see one – you can’t imagine: all were this dress and hairstyle. A wide black dress with colourfully stitched ornaments around all borders, many many colourful necklaces, 5 braids and a beautiful cap – indescribable, but see yourself on the pics. The kept their great culture alive for over nobody knows how many years.
They seem to be descendants of Alexander the Great. After so many “successful” conquering over the continent his soldiers were too exhausted after passing the Jhelum River (which we also crossed on our way north to Chitral) in 327 BC. Some of them allegedly stayed there. The Kalash population was much bigger till 1890, when the Islamic missionaries came. Now there are only 3 Valleys left. 3 wonderful Valleys. Though they are not too far away of the other Pakistani civilization, they are so pristine, proud and very much alive – with a rising population (now around 5000)
We spent 2 great days there with lots of tea, dancing, singing, peaceful coexistence of the Kalash and Muslim people who also live in the Valleys.
Rabichan, the beautiful guesthouse owner plaited 5 braids out of my hair, made delicious, simple food and told us in broken English and the language of mind and heart about her life.
Birir Valley is one of the most beautiful places ever seen, ever if you don’t think of the great people here. Impressive rocks, green meadows, fresh green walnut trees, small picturesque rivers between rocky grounds.

All people live peacefully, help each other, play games, sports…
“All the houses are like one house, we live everywhere, we can go everywhere. Try it!”
and we did. It was such a nice experience to be allowed to enter everywhere, sit down and watch the Kalash while doing their daily routines: baking bread, making the braids, feeding the children, working on the fields, washing, cutting wood, building houses – altogether.
An old man suffered from a bad headache – the last medicine was gone a month ago, the next refilling will be in June. I brought Paracetamol and he sang a song for me, I understood no word, but my heart knew about his gratefulness. He allowed me to take a video. “I sang a short song, because I believe the tape is very expensive” he explained after his moving song. “Consider me as your brother!” said the at least 70 year old man. Thank you so much!
After 2 days we went over a pass to the next valley – a great deep valley which we had to climb. Steep, loose stones everywhere, bad trails but – I have used all words, what can I say? - marvellous landscape, crystal-clear fresh spring water, overwhelming views.

On the top, where I reached 1 hours earlier than the others (it was Steffis first Trek ever, she did a great job!!!) there was a stoned goat herder, rolling his next joint, searching not really ambitious for his goats who were high up in the rocks, grinning down knowing that they could do whatever they wanted.
Trekking down after the pass was even worse or better – as you want to see it. Watch every single step, slide down the icy, shady parts, the trail was invisible. More loose stones, soil and old pine needles in the best surroundings ever! Even TirichMir, the highest mountain here was clearly visible on the horizon. Its only 7704m, but has a beautiful shape. Mountain view is much better in Nepal I have to confess, but the rest here – wow!
In Bumburet, the next valley we attended the Yoshi spring festival – so many beautiful women in their best dresses, dancing and singing, the old men telling stories in moving singsang in the middle.

I was dressed in a Kalashi dress, dancing with the others in the chaotic but great style, stepping on each others toes but nobody minds – the chaos is hiding behind dusty clouds for the spectators. Many Pakistani Tourists were there, capturing most annoying pictures of the Kalashi women. They never see a woman without scarf than their own – from Karachi, Lahore and other big cities travel agencies provide trips to the Kalash festivals and the Pakistani book them and run after the Kalashi girls with greed and lust in their eyes. It was a very bad feeling sometimes.
3 nights we spent there, learning a lot about Kalashi culture – but much too less. I will certainly come again (I don’t want to write all details, but if you are interested I can provide them!)
After all in all 7 most enjoyable days and many different info on the way out of Chitral Valley we went back to Chitral town and on to Buni with some friends who invited us to stay with them and go together via the other route to Gilgit. We didn’t want to risk our last tyres on Lawari Pass where we came.
Though many many negative information on the route (it was about 49:51 for Gilgit road) we crossed easily.

On top there is a vast plain with old polo fields, a great crystal-clear lake, yaks, small houses and overwhelmingly looking snow mountains rising from the plains behind the huge lake.
In the evening we really reached Gilgit. Now lets see what the next days will bring!!

there are pics on yahoo - they are too much for this blog... if you are asked for a password: acchigom

Pakistan with car pics